Chinese Youth Street Profile Series…

In this week’s Chinese youth street profile series we are tracking generational youth influences and the international brands vs. local Chinese brands.

May 13th, 2009, Youth Street Profile:

Name: Liushen Jia

Age: 20

Hometown: Shanghai

Occupation: Student

Wearing: “Army” CLOT x Neighborhood T-Shirt, Green & Red Gucci Belt, Camo Shorts, Nike Air Force 1 Sneakers

Liushen Jia represents the 90′s generation of Shanghai. Strolling down the street with his school uniform clad girlfriend in tow, Liushen agreed to chat about some of his generational influences and international brands versus local brands in China.

Generational Influencers

I asked Liushen who he most admired and his immediate response was the Taiwanese  pop-singer Jay Chou and the infamous Hong Kong singer/actor/CLOT Inc. founder, Edison Chen. Both of these talents have extremely large persona’s both in Taiwan, Hong Kong, and on the mainland. It’s an interesting outward societal influence for a member of China’s 90′s generation. It is well known that Edison Chen’s liberal attitude precedes any of his artistic work at the moment, and last year’s photo-scandal had a far reaching societal impact, even among the youth of China. The spread of the scandal on the internet, especially among Chinese youth tells us a few things: intense social permeation, either positive OR negative, has the ability to influence China’s youth. And not only does it have an influence on China’s youth, but it can actually influence purchasing decisions; Liushen was wearing an Edison Chen branded CLOT Inc, t-shirt, which, much like wearing a Yao Ming or Kobe Bryant basketball jersey, is a direct connection between admiration for Chen and the clothing that he produces.

Identifying himself with China’s 90′s generation, Liushen feels his generation is more “fashionable and fun-loving” than either the 70′s or 80′s generation. Based on his admiration for Chou and Chen, this is not a shocking response. A member of the 70′s or 80′s generation in China might have viewed Chen’s scandal as distasteful and extremely inappropriate. But a member of the 90′s generation is quicker to shrug this off and accept a person like Chen back into society much quicker. This is evidence of a more liberalized and open-minded generation than previously seen in China.

What does this mean for brands marketing to the hard to crack 90′s generation?

• Do not discard brand sponsors or be afraid to use “tainted” brand sponsors simply based on past exploits. China’s 90′s generation is more willing to accept human flaws, with some even identifying more with a brand that is also willing to take risks.
• Brands should not be afraid to try and push the envelope in their marketing, designs, or packaging with the 90′s generation. It is now possible in China to be exposed to ANYTHING on the internet. China’s 90′s generation is smarter and more conscious of  sensitive global and local issues than they are given credit for. Much like the “Cao Ni Ma and He Xie” internet sensations, it is possible to take risks AND toe the line. Do it right and you can be successful.

International brands vs. Local Chinese brands

Liushen Jia’s wardrobe consisted of  large name international brands, Nike, CLOT Inc. x Neighborhood and Gucci. I was curious if this was because he disliked Chinese brands or he strictly favored international brands. He answered that he doesn’t mind Chinese brands, he simply feels that international brands are more established and offer a higher level of exclusivity than Chinese brands. Exclusivity is always a defining characteristic of fashionistas, both in the high-end couture fashion world and also in the urban, streetwear level. Exclusivity is an interesting shift in the Chinese fashion attitude.

Are members of China’s affluent social classes willing to pay more for exclusive items, much like limited art pieces? It seems to be a natural progression in a society with over 1 billion people. Establishing a personal fashion identity is also a shift being seen in China’s fashion communities. Right now international brands are the brands satiating their appetites. It is my opinion that people in China WANT to buy local brands, but local Chinese brands are not providing the right combination of exclusivity, quality, and international recognition. What do I mean by international recognition? Let’s look at the sneaker brand Feiyue.

I asked Liushen, if he viewed any Chinese brands as cool and his first response was Feiyue. Why I asked? He responded that Feiyue was now a brand with international recognition and it had ascended from a local common product in China to a global brand with fashionable qualities. It remains clear that many Chinese brands are not “mature” enough to be accepted in the Chinese fashion society as more fashionable than international brands.

So how can international brands take advantage of their mature perception and how can local brands reach this mature level? Let’s look at a few ways:

• Both international and local brands can look to increase the perception of exclusivity of their products. Over-saturation is an enviable positions for a lot of brands, but the backlash can be harsh (i.e. Crocs). To many people exclusivity represents quality and a goal. I want a pair of those 1 of 10 Nikes that I know I’ll never get, or a limited release pair of denim jeans. This is a goal, and fulfilling a goal gives people happiness and sense of entitlement. Brands have the power to make this happen.
• Create a unique identity for your product and brand. This is an obvious suggestion but one that seems to be neglected the most. Let’s go back to Feiyue. As a traditional “kung-fu” type shoe, they play up their unique Chinese elements and heritage identity. They embrace who they are and have created their own niche in a crowded global sneaker market. Instead of catering toward a local Chinese audience they went international which created demand among the Chinese market. More local brands should follow suit.

(a Joey Dembs production)