Kappa which was once a symbol of, as Graham Brown describes, rave culture cool in the UK and a mark of Italian sporting style in the rest of Europe. It is now known in China for it’s proud show of European heritage, bold colorings and fashion forward styles. Kappa can best be said to be a youthful but obtainable sports lifestyle brand which wears it’s European influences quite literally on it’s sleeve.

Whilst often lumped in with competing local and foreign sports brands, Kappa sets itself out from the pack by dubbing itself a fashion line, influenced by sports. The brand chooses to affiliate itself more closesly with youth style icons and websites. And even for the sports events it does get involved with, e.g. golf, it makes them a more stylish and star powered affairs. This is a smart move.

Many Chinese youth, especially in the run up to the dreaded gaokao (college examination), are not particularly involved in sports. They often dress to a more modest fashion tone so as to reflect a more dilligent appearance.

Kappa strikes the right balance of casual but fashion forward leanings. It’s less expensive than Nike and Adidas but more luxurious than Anta and Li Ning. A true blend of foreign and local.

Chinese celebreties attend a fashion event sponsored by YohoxKappa.

With the Dongxiang group acting as the vanguard in this market others have been quick to follow. Anta has acquired the brand rights to Fila and Li Ning to Lotto – both brands showing that if you can’t buy your own history, then you can at least buy someone else’s.

The Green 001 shoe is itself a success in eco friendly design. The shoe body, insoles and shoelaces use natural eco-friendly materials such as paper materials and better cottons.The “Green 001″ also comes with a unique shoebox that showcases a new logo and the slogan “ONLY ONE EARTH.”  There are pictures of endangered animals on the bottom of the box. In addition, a picture of  Maathai, a Kenyan environmental activist and winner of the Nobel Peace prize, is printed on the box. Yup, you get it, this is one GREEN shoe.

Using our perceptive sense of “style” and extensive background of footwear knowledge, we have selected our top choices from the crazy world of Chinese footwear companies. (We have left out all “lifestyle” categories and only included technical running shoes.)

#7 – Peak’s Women’s Running Shoe. Interesting color choices and obvious meld of fashion and technology.

#6 – Li Ning’s Men’s Running Shoe. This would have been higher, but the color choices are appalling. I applaud the innovative and unique form.

#5 – X-Step’s (特步）all black runner comes in fifth with a chunkier design that would definitely be attractive to a young Chinese man.

#4 – In what appears to be a trend in a separated heel design, this shoe by Anta has nice color choices and a sleek, “movement” like design.

#3 – Out of all the Chinese shoe companies, most impressive was 361. This women’s model has nice colors with classic, yet modern design.

#2 – This trainer / off-road model from Li-ning offers great colors, edgy patterns and unique use of materials.

#1 – Classic colors, classic style, yet with modern materials all wrapped into a great running shoe by 361.

如果说，清晨跑步的基本上是老年人的话，那夜跑则是年轻人的天下。
If we say, early morning running is essentially for old people, then night running is a world for young people.

‘Night running groups’ [夜跑团] are small groups of young Chinese men and women for whom running is a method of stress relief and social engagement. These groups also have a strong internet presence, particularly among local QQ groups, but also on numerous local BBS. The emphasis is on group activity and meeting new people, often internet friends whom they can now meet under the context of ‘night running’.

The new phenomenon appeals on numerous levels, as a method to meet others, get fit, relieve work/study tension, save money on gym membership, and also purely by its new, novelty and cool factor. One BBS user comments:

夜跑这种说法，廷时尚的.
This term night running, is very fashionable.

Night running is indicative of the constrained lifestyle that many young people live. Early starts followed by long days spent at work or studying mean time to socialise and exercise is limited; night running combines both.

So far, Li Ning is the only brand in China who has taken notice of this movement, hosting a large scale event in Beijing’s Chaoyang park. The event was not only staged at night but also featured music performances and numerous prize giveaways.

TV coverage of Li Ning’s night running event

Night running is based as much around social interaction as it is around exercise, so group interaction is of vital importance. Route is also key, and locations are published online, so guerrilla marketing is an easy option. Despite being a group activity, there is no spirit of competition, in fact ‘night running’ is a means to escape the pressures of work and studying, so any added pressures of competition are unwelcome.

However, many Chinese companies are relying on innovative ideas and unique design thinking to make their brands stand out in China and on the world stage. We at enoVate want to examine these brands and acknowledge the innovative steps being taken to improve their brands.

The first company in our innovation series is Li Ning. Li Ning is at an awkward stage in their brand development and positioning. In the Chinese market, where they do 99% of their business, they trail global sportswear giants, Nike and Adidas. Like many famous international brands in China (McDonald’s, Kraft Foods, Amway) Nike and Adidas have established their international image and brand philosophy within the minds of Chinese consumers. This translates well to Chinese consumers of whom many prefer more “global brands” to local Chinese brands.

It is a commonly held perception that Li Ning views Nike as the cooler, more mature older brother in the sportswear scene. Similar logos and slogans play into this view as well. In a BusinessWeek report on Li Ning, Abel Wu, head of Li Ning’s footwear division brings to the table this thought: “We don’t have as strong as brand as Nike and Adidas [so] our thinking is that as a local brand, we need to have an international image.”

But how is Li Ning trying to accomplish this?

Li Ning has turned its sights to the mecca for creative sportswear art and design: Portland, Oregon. Located in a two-story building in Portland’s Pearl District, Li Ning’s creative Portland headquarters are headed by Alan Hardy, a former senior designer at Nike and design director at Converse, Inc (now under the Nike umbrella). By positioning themselves in Portland, Oregon, Li Ning is giving itself access to innovative companies and designers that it might not have found in China.

Li Ning feels that solidifying a global image will help it’s brand in China.  The 2008 Beijing Olympics propelled Li Ning into the global sportswear vernacular. But Li Ning is taking further steps in this direction by partnering with leading global artists to display innovative product and design campaigns. Famous graphic designer KAWS designed a nifty Olympic Track Jacket and another famed graphic designer James Jarvis held a Li Ning sponsored event in Beijing showcasing his distinct designs. Collaborations of this sort mark Li Ning’s entrance into a more fashion conscious “Hypebeast” type market.

Li Ning x KAWS

Li Ning x Jim Jarvis
Li Ning is also embracing local creative Chinese design teams for innovation and product designs. Local graphic design agency Jellymon has recently been working with Li Ning on various graphic design and photography projects displaying hip, new youth targeted products made by Li Ning. Our streetwear and youth lifestyle brand eno is also brainstorming and developing innovative concepts to help Li Ning connect with a fashion forward youth audience. And recently, to celebrate Earth Day, Li Ning teamed up with renowned Hong Kong illustrator and toy designer Tim Tsui and Hong Kong based Milk Magazine to produce large, life-like statues made entirely from wood.

Li Ning x Tim Tsui x Milk Magazine

Li Ning x Jellymon

All of these collaborations display innovative approaches to attracting youth markets to Li Ning. We applaud innovation at enoVate and hope Li Ning continues with their innovative ways.

[a Joey Dembs x enoVate production]